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Look in any direction and you’ll see richly illuminated manuscripts, opulent gilded reliquaries, rare textiles, exquisitely carved khatchkars, precious liturgical woodwork, rare printed books—and the artistic pièce de résistance: a sixteen-foot painted map showing the locations of the Armenian churches of historic Armenia before the Genocide.

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Pilgrims visiting the holiest site in Christendom, Jerusalem’s Church of the Holy Sepulchre, found its doors shuttered this week, in a protest against proposed legislation that would enable the government of Israel to tax and even confiscate properties owned by the city’s Christian churches.

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